An Indian Himalayan Escape by Motorcycle

So, why the Indian Himalayas?!

India has always intrigued me, and I'm definitely keen to return. However, what got us there on our first Indian adventure was this; In early 2025 I entered a competition to win a motorcycle tour in the Himalayas. As I entered the competition earlier in the year and it didn't finish until late 2025, I totally forgot about it...I never win anything anyway!

Roll on to a cold Monday morning in January 2026 and I got a message from Kerry at Ride Expeditions. She wanted to call me but I was busy, however, cutting a long story short I managed to squeeze in a quick chat and the upshot was this: I won the bloody competition! An eight day 'Himalayan Escape'...Whoop whoop! The excitement was immense!

The Ride Expeditions 8 day (6 days riding) Himalayan Escape Tour Outline

As this 'win' was just for one person, it was then up to Kelvin if he wanted to fork out the £'s to come as well. Given this was likely going to be a once in a lifetime opportunity he was very keen, and before we knew it we'd signed up to a tour starting on July 5th! Eek!

The months flew by and the next thing I knew we were both sitting in Heathrow, waiting for our flight to Delhi...the second time I'd been in Departures in Heathrow in just three weeks! It hadn't ended up being the most ideal timing for me, having just spent two weeks in Kenya at the drop of a hat due to my step dad dying suddenly, a huge shock, but it was what it was. I felt physically and emotionally exhausted before we'd even started, and I would have two more flights to deal with before starting (a challenge as a nervous flyer), as well as the altitude (flying in to Leh at a whopping 3500m above sea level), and riding in a group of people I didn't know, but I was determined to make the most of this amazing opportunity...and that's just what I did!

Snow-capped peaks rise majestically under a dramatic sky, framed by lush greenery in the foreground.

We'd been given a link to the 'Vamoos' App by the company, which held all of the details and itinerary for the tour. Sitting in airports was an ideal time to read everything through fully, and get in to the adventure motorcycle travel frame of mind!

Let the Himalayan Escape commence...

Day 1 Sun 5th July - acclimatisation day!

We'd left London early on Saturday morning and arrived in Leh ariport at around 8.15am on Sunday morning, having had no sleep at all. We were running on fumes (or fumes of fumes for me, lol!). Our driver was thankfully all ready to pick us up and whisk us off to the hotel. He marched up the slope to the van with our luggage, and after initially setting off promptly after him, I soon slowed down. I temporarily forgot we were at very high altitude. My body reminded me very quickly with heavy legs, a pounding heart and breathlessness like I'd just tried to sprint up the road! Doh! We'd been taking Diamox since Friday, so hopefully that'd help a little with the acclimatisation?!

The majestic Shanti Stupa in Leh stands gracefully under a dynamic sky. A view from our hotel room!

Despite being at the hotel (the Druk Ladakh) way before check in time, they allowed us to check in early without additional fees. We were ever so grateful! It meant we could get in two hours of sleep before lunch, which we were in desperate need of. Needless to say, as soon as our heads were down, we were lights out!

After our cat nap we met Lobo (aka 'wolf', our tour leader) in the lobby on our way to lunch. He was from Colombia and was elated to discover we'd spent six months travelling around his home country, and what an amazing country it is! It sparked fond memories. This was his second tour group to lead in as many weeks and was super enthusiastic! 

Our cozy hotel room at the Druk Ladakh

Lunch was delicious, a creamy paneer with Roti, and nothing like we'd get at home. I had a feeling this trip would spoil us for life in terms of decent Indian food! Following that we ventured outside and sat with two others in the tour group...John and John, both British. We also briefly met Jacques and his son Jacques from South Africa. Thereafter known as Jacques snr and Jacques Jnr! Remembering names on this tour was going to be easy!! Ha ha!! Betame was from the USA, and Pete was due to arrive first thing in the morning, also from the UK, and that would complete our group of eight. An ideal size!

Kelvin and I with all of the various Royal Enfield Himalayans all lined up ready for the tour!

We all attended an initial briefing at 6pm with Lobo. After introductions, Lobo showed us a great map of the Ladakh region, outlined where we'd be going, what to expect, the second man drop-off rule (or 'CornerMan' rule) and other useful information. We also got a bag of goodies each, complete with tour specific T-shirt, riding jersey with our name on it, stickers, map, mini prayer flags for the bike, water bottle, among other things. We then had a quick look at the bikes and I chose the 411 version of the Royal Enfield Himalayan due to its slightly shorter stature and narrower seat, making getting my feet on the floor that much easier. Kelvin opted for the more modern 450 version, which is what most other riders also had.

A tangled web of cables and wires...It must be challenging to be an electrician or telecoms engineer here?! Or maybe there’s some method in the madness?

It was then time for a top-notch buffet dinner, which was ideal as we could try a little of everything, followed by another sleep. Thankfully I didn't sleep too awfully despite the altitude, and the Zzzzzz's were much needed!

Day 2 Mon 6th July - (Day 1 riding)

We awoke with anticipation of the first day of riding ahead…both feelings of excitement and nerves interwoven. We headed down to breakfast for a fabulous buffet, where I helped myself to a lot, including some Indian breads. Mmmm mmm! All washed down with a weak coffee (trying to take it easy on the caffeine) and a load of water to help the hydration. Everyone was in good spirits and raring to go!

Kelvin next to the Royal Enfield Himalayan, ready for adventure.

We kitted up and set off down to the bikes. No need to pack everything up today as we’d be back at the hotel later.

Kelvin and John Cooper enjoying the surroundings and Irfhan bringing snacks! Thanks Irfhan!

So first up was time to make sure we were happy with the bike set up. I could tell my brain wasn’t working yet…I was saying “I can’t get foot under gear shift” but what I was trying to do was get it under the brake! Doh!!! How embarrassing!!! I was clearly on a different planet, ha ha! Cue red face!!!

Pulled up at the side of the road to enjoy the magnificent view of the Indus River, Zanskar River and valley.

I did need to get the gear shift pedal moved up a little and also brake lever moved down. The rubber parts on the footpegs were also removed, as they don’t make for great comfort or grip when standing on the pegs. Manooch and Ramesh were on it, and before I knew it I was ready to get going!

A view of the valley where the Indus River meets the Zanskar River.

I was very nervous! The tiredness didn’t help but the adrenaline was keeping me fuelled. I felt ok on the bike, both my feet able to touch the floor without issue. The clutch was a little bit of a challenge with the biting point being quite far out and only small hands, but after a few turns I was settling in to it. Every bike is different and it always takes a little time to adapt.

We made our way out of Leh through the traffic, which actually wasn’t as crazy as I’d imagined. We then all stopped after a while at a stunning view point, looking right down the valley where two rivers met; The Indus River and Zanskar river. We were given nuts, chocolate and water by the team and I had a chance to get out my good camera to take some photos. I still couldn’t believe it; we were here...in the Himalayas!

Kelvin and Lobo on route to the temple, chatting next to an intricately decorated prayer (Mani) wheel. Lobo was telling us all about the mani's and making sure we spun them clockwise!

Betame and Lobo walking through Alchi’s vibrant market stalls filled with intricate handicrafts and colorful textiles.

Lobo spins prayer (Mani) wheels in Alchi.

Next stop was Alchi Choskhor monastery in Alchi. Coming down in to the parking area it was like a block paving and I applied the back brake a little too hard with my heavy Tech-7’s and slid. Luckily I had the sense to back off immediately and fortunately remained upright. Now that could have been embarrassing!!

The monastery itself was super old (slight understatement), being one of the earliest temple complexes in Ladakh, built in 11th Century AD!!

Informative signage at Alchi Choskhore Monastery describes its historical significance as one of Ladakh's earliest temple complexes, built in the 11th century by Lotsava Rinchen Zangpo...can you spot the typo?!

Sign leading to Alchi Choskor, managed by Likir Monastery in Leh, Ladakh, directs visitors towards the historic site with colorful prayer flags beneath.

Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed, and there were lockers to leave phones, cameras etc inside. Also, it wasn’t permitted to have footwear on inside the actual temples, so we were able to leave out bike boots outside the first one. Given we’d had no rain, the ground was dry so most of us opted to just keep them off whilst we strolled between the four main temples and other small rooms. It was really interesting decoration and statues in the four temples with lots of offerings left by people for the monks. The walls were covered in intricate paintings, replicated over and over again, that must have taken hundreds of hours to create. Definitely a mindful activity!

Kelvin posing with a vibrant plate of grilled paneer Tikka skewers, yellow rice, fresh salad, and fries. Guess who ate the salad bit?!

Next was lunch, and both Kelvin and I chose paneer, but dry on a skewer rather than in a sauce. A bit of a risk, but boy was it good! Again, so different to any paneer we’d had in the UK. It was washed down with a ginger lemon tea, which would become a favourite on this adventure, and also a mango lassi. Yummy! Just as an aside, Ginger lemon tea is popular in Ladakh due to its warming properties, which are ideal for the cold desert climate, albeit warm for us, and its health benefits, including relief from nausea and digestive issues. Definitely a must at this altitude!

After that we rode back along route to Leh, and there was lots of traffic again but not too bad. One guy forced Jacques Jnr off the road on a hairpin bend as the car was trying to overtake, and Betame’s bike cut out at one point to, but luckily no mishaps. Everyone was starting to settle in to their bikes, the altitude and the Ladakh way of driving.

My bike's kickstand sinks into melting asphalt on a hot day, illustrating the intense heat affecting the road surface. Yes, even at 3500m+!

For myself, being on a different bike as well as the tiredness etc, my back, hips and knees were aching a lot by the end of the day. It had been a relatively short day, but I reckoned I’d adapt quickly. Back at the hotel it was a shower and snooze for us (it’s very odd for me to sleep in day but think it was the altitude) then we were picked up for dinner. We all headed off to a place called 'Chopsticks' in Leh city, and it was absolutely crazy traffic the closer we got in the narrow streets of Leh city centre.

At the restaurant they kept bringing us various starters, and overall we had far too much food, but it was sooooo good. I just wish we could have donated the leftovers to someone. Lobo then drew us some diagrams of the route for the following day, which was going to be about 260km and up to 1000m extra altitude. Today we did about 160km from 9am to 3pm, with a long lunch and temple stop, so it was definitely going to be a much longer day tomorrow!

When I counted all the bites around my midriff I clocked 18!!!

On arriving back at the hotel I noticed that some kind of insect must had made its way around my abdomen and in my navel, having left bites all over me…about 18 in total! Hopefully they’d settle.

Day 3 Tuesday 7th July (Day 2 riding)

The day started off at 8.45am after a lovely buffet breakfast. I was dismayed to find that my small bites I’d barely noticed on my abdomen from yesterday evening were extremely itchy and looking angry. Bugger!

Kelvin enjoying meandering through the valley on his Himalayan 450, alongside the Indus river

Kelvin still enjoying meandering through the valley on his Himalayan 450

A junction in Upshi near the Indus River, just South East of Leh

A 'dhaba' in Upshi

The group enjoying some ginger lemon tea, snacks and refreshments in the Dhabi in Upshi

Now, what’s in here?!

A squat and drop style bathroom…at least it has walls and a door…I’m happy!!!

It was relatively crazy traffic on route out of Leh, but once again, not as bad as I anticipated. We stopped for a snack break at a local ‘dhaba’, of course with a ginger lemon tea, and I very much needed a wee. The toilet was very basic, as expected, and a ‘squat and drop’ toilet, but so long as I could wee without an audience, I was happy!

Kelvin getting ready for the next stint and looking a tad crazy…maybe it’s the altitude, or maybe it’s just him?!

A breathtaking view of the rugged mountains South east of Upshi under a cloud-streaked sky, with the tranquil Indus river meandering through the arid landscape, creating a serene contrast to the stark beauty of the peaks.

A winding road cuts through the rugged mountains somewhere between Upshi and Tirido.

Our Indus riverside lunch stop between Tirido and Gaik

Setting off again we followed the Indus river along, then lunch was a riverside picnic. The entrance to the picnic area had a bit of sand and gravel rock, but was absolutely fine. The surroundings were beautiful, and the idea of a riverside picnic appealed greatly.

Everyone all parked up and ready for a lovely picnic!

We all made our way to some shade in the trees

Kelvin enjoying the riverside stop

Bless, 'his and hers' biking gear, Kelvin and Suzie. Ah, cute (ok, dorky) couple! Lol!

I also managed to find a good wee spot, ha ha! We were each given a lunch box of a boiled egg, boiled potato, a salad sandwich, mini dairy milk, a banana and a chocolate coconut thing which was super yummy.

Just before Mahe...A tranquil and dramatic landscape unfolds, showcasing rugged mountains with a gently winding river below, under a sky filled with dynamic clouds.

Just before Mahe...Vast and serene landscape of the Tibetan Plateau, with rolling mountains under a dramatic, cloud-filled sky.

Stopping at Loma checkpoint. Kelvin taking in the vastness of the surroundings, just before the Loma Bridge

Lobo explaining where we will be going after the Loma checkpoint that we’re stopped at, whilst NoNo sorts the paperwork with the military official.

We then carried on through a stunning valley, before reaching Hanle. We stopped a little while to talk about the monastery on top of the hill, and the plan for the following day as we could see clearly from that viewpoint where we’d be going. It really was such a beautiful view around us, and after another snack, a great opportunity for a group photo.

Suzie pulling in, all smiles! We stopped just on the outskirts of Hanle

Lobo telling us about Hanle monastery (on top of the mountain) as well as the dark sky reserve and pointing out the road to Umling La for tomorrow

Hanle monastery

The team all pulled up roadside near Hanle for some more snacks before we do the final small ride to the accommodation

What an awesome group!!! From Left to Right: Irfhan, Ramesh (front), Pete, Jacques Jnr, John (front), Jacques Snr, Betame, Monoosh (behind Kelvin), Achoo (behind Suzie), NoNo and John C.

The same again but with our tour leader extraordinaire Lobo doing a selfie!

We carried on out of Hanle a little while, until we reached our accommodation for the night; The Sky Abode Hanle. The room was really big and inviting, with the exception of the three big, spindly spiders we had to evict! Ha ha! I’d have to try and switch my arachnophobe mind!

The view from the veranda outside the restaurant at the The Sky Abode Hanle…what a view it is!

The bikes all parked up for a well earned rest!

A dramatic sky looms over the rugged mountains, with rain clouds casting a moody ambiance across the landscape below.

My trusty steed….the Royal Enfield Himalayan 411 with my prayer flags

We all sat together in their large lounge area to top up on our water, then a little later snacks and chai masala tea. My new found loves: Chai Masala and lemon ginger tea! There was some music playing courtesy of the accommodation’s ‘DJ’, and I have to say, some really cool tunes that sadly Shazam wouldn’t recognise. Betame got well in to some dancing, roping a couple of others in. We chatted to some of the other clients, took photos, but I decided not to dance as my resting heart rate was still not happy, so additional exercise probably wasn’t the wisest…well that’s my excuse anyway!

Betame busting some grooves and coaxing others to join!

Dinner was a lovely buffet, and we really enjoyed it. I literally tried a bit of everything, and I could have eaten it all again, but decided not to as sleeping at altitude on an overly full stomach probably wasn’t wise.

Mmmmmm, a fabulous indian buffet!

Lobo checked everyone’s SpO2 and mine was the highest (a good thing) at 96% with my breathing techniques, however it sadly didn’t result in a good night sleep, as I woke at 11.30pm with a thumping heart and SpO2 of 83%!! Eek! I managed to bring it back up to 92% with good breathing, but sadly didn’t get back to sleep until 4am! Despite the good pre-slumber O2 saturations, I ended up with the worst sleep of everyone.

Our cozy bedroom with a rustic wooden bed and modern decor opens to a breathtaking view of a mountainous landscape, visible through large glass doors. The Sky Abode Hanle.

Day 4 Wed 8th July (Day 3 riding)

I woke absolutely shattered. Well, that’s an understatement. My breathing, heart rate and SpO2 were fine-ish, but I just felt completely drained. We packed our bags, left them outside the room for collection (yes, waited on hand and foot) then went for breakfast in our kit. We were off by 8am. Fortunately the anticipation adrenaline woke me up!

Pete, John C, Kelvin and Jacques Jnr having a breather. Just a little South East of Hanle on the wide gravel road, great fun!!!

John telling Kelvin and the Jacques about his little off in the deep sand, but still smiling!

Suzie making her way up the dirt road switchbacks on the way up to Narbula pass

We started the day on a dirt track which then segwayed in to a section with sand, so I was a bit squirrely but managed ok on my Himalayan with road tyres and high pressures! Yippee! If anything could wake me up, that’d do it, lol!!! Then it was back to dirt track again, which meandered up in to the mountain. I barely noticed how much we were going up, but we ended up at Narbula pass in Nyoma, a staggering 5281m altitude.

Kelvin at Narbula pass, just a magical, serene place to be!

A breathtaking view from Narbula pass of snow-capped peaks under dramatic clouds, contrasting against the arid, rolling hills of the Tibetan Plateau.

I was the first person up there, with NoNo directing me where to go. I parked up, and spent a minute just taking in my surroundings by myself. Stunning!!! We’d been given some prayer flags by Lobo to put up, so once the others had arrived, I helped to get them in a good spot, the blue end up highest and with the flags not dragging on the floor. It felt oddly good, and the backdrop was jaw-dropping. This was one of my favourite spots of the trip; a high pass with stunning scenery and no other tourists or groups in sight! It was just us. Yes, I was keen to experience the more ‘famous’ passes, but there was something special about this quiet spot.

Suzie and Kelvin celebrate their journey to Umlingla Hut! Whoop whoop! It felt oddly emotional to be there. Probably for many reasons, and although a bit busy and not as calming as Narbula, it felt good to be there for a short time.

Nono and Achoo beside the Umlingla Hut sign. Can you spot our ‘AvVida’ sticker?

The huts at Umling La adorned with stickers from around the world!

We made our way back down the hill and on to a small, tarmac road. It was quite narrow, and took us all the way to Umling La, a mere 5798m above sea level!!! We all parked up, took the obligatory photos with some other random visitors, and then a couple of us strung up some prayer flags and rubbed incense sticks in our hands. Apparently, this is part of a spiritual practice, symbolising purification and the transfer of sacred energy.

Suzie and Betame attach colorful prayer flags at Umling La in Ladakh, surrounded by rugged landscapes and cloudy skies, capturing the spirit of adventure and cultural reverence.

Kelvin stands amidst the vast, rugged landscapes of a Himalayan plateau, surrounded by colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

Prayer flags flutter in the wind against the backdrop of snow-capped peaks and dramatic, cloud-filled skies in the Himalayas. Just stunning!

After a quick toilet stop, we thankfully descended. We were so high and I really felt the effort to do anything!! I’d wheeled my bike back out of it’s parked position, and it felt like I’d just sprinted 100m!! It was the same beautiful road back down the mountain again and to a small dhaba for more lemon ginger tea.

Us and another group of motorcyclists celebrate reaching Umling La, now the second highest motorable pass in the world!

Um, a bit high altitude for push-ups me thinks!!!!

Our motorcycles parked at the world's highest parking spot at 19,024 feet.

A view back on the winding road leading up to Umling La

It was then on to a ‘bypass route’, however, when we needed to cross the valley at the end, the road was closed as part of it was missing so we had to do a big detour.  Saying that, it wasn’t a major detour from our previous detour experiences, and actually a nice ride through the valley, so we were quite happy. Probably not so good for those organising things I can imagine.

Another Dhaba

Tents nestled in a serene, mountainous landscape with overcast skies create a peaceful yet rugged environment, highlighting the beauty of remote wilderness living.

Another checkpoint near Tiggarmale, close to the Indus River

Getting kitted up ready for the black skies ahead, just south of Chusul, before Pangong Lake.

We could see big rain storm up ahead as we were making our way through the open valley, but after all donning our wet weather gear, we ended up getting away with just a light rain shower. Thank you weather Gods!

Lovely, winding roads on the South side of Pangong Lake. Jacques and Jacques enjoying the ride!

Then is was along the valley further and on to Pangong lake. I think it was on this part of the ride where I was riding alone for a good while in the open, winding valley, and it was just bliss! I felt like I was on my own adventure, no other vehicles in sight, just the mountains and me. It was absolutely stunning, and on reaching the lake, we all caught up with one another as NoNo stopped in a fabulous photo op location. The lake was just so blue in places and there was a magnificent view all the way across the lake to over to China!

Pangong Lake and Pangong Range in the background…you can see China from here!!! What a stunning rainbow cloud to!

We were even treated to an amazing rainbow to, like a huge block of rainbow rather than the usual arch. I stopped at an open area without anything in the way and managed to snap a good photo, even though I think it was a sight now etched in my memory bank. We then continued on to the accommodation on the edge of the lake called 'Desert Blue'.

All the bikes parked up at our next accommodation ‘Desert Blue’ on the shore of Pangong lake with the majestic mountains in the background

A tranquil view from our room at ‘Desert Blue’ of Pangong Lake, with its serene blue waters reflecting the cloudy sky, nestled amidst the rugged, mountainous landscape.

The adrenaline and hype that’d kept me focused all day vanished almost instantly. I felt wiped out. A few times today, when I’d stopped still for a short while, I felt I could fall asleep due to the lack of sleep and altitude, and my bites also itched like crazy! Still, I reminded myself of where I was and what I was doing, and despite the fatigue and discomfort, I felt immensely grateful. I also asked Lobo for something to put on the bites, which seemed to help quite a lot.

A serene view of Pangong Lake with a few people enjoying the tranquil landscape. An Indian flag flutters near a bright yellow scooter, while the rugged mountains provide a majestic backdrop.

Pangong Tso lake, nestled amidst the arid mountains under a dramatic, cloudy sky, reflecting the rugged beauty of the landscape.

Pangong Lake with its vivid blue waters, set against the majestic backdrop of the rugged, snow-capped Himalayas under a moody sky.

We went up to our room, our luggage waiting for us thanks to the team. Our blue cabin had a panoramic view over the lake and a backdrop of mountains. We both showered, then walked down to the lake for some photos of the immense view, where we also saw Jacques Jnr. After taking in the view with some Indian tourists, we made our way back up for dinner. Another fabulous buffet!

A row of blue cabins of ‘Desert Blue’ stands beneath the dramatic, snow-capped peaks of the mountains

Majestic mountain peaks are partially veiled by misty clouds, revealing a striking pattern of rugged ridges and patches of snow.

Again we were given a quick overview of what the next day had in store for us by Lobo, with some diagrams and the map, so we could all go to bed looking forward to the next day once again. I love maps! Lol!

A hearty Indian meal featuring a plate of flavorful curry with tender chicken, vibrant mixed vegetables, and fragrant lentils served over rice, accompanied by freshly made roti and crispy papadum.

Day 5 Thurs 9th July (Day 4 riding)

We started the day early with breakfast at 7am and leaving at 7.30am. Jacques snr was feeling a little unwell so Lobo checked his SpO2 and other vitals. Thankfully it was passable, and also today we’d be ending up at about 3000m altitude instead of over 4000m, so that would likely help matters.

The morning view from our room and the team getting our bikes all checked over and ready for another day of adventures!

All kitted up and getting ready to ride!

A hidden waterfall nestled within the cliffs in the Shyok Valley

We all set off and it was lovely single track tarmac around the lake to start with, and then wider tarmac road, which was much faster. It was just such beautiful scenery. There was also a stop off for some snacks with more stunning scenery!

Lobo all smiles in the Shyok valley

Kelvin's motorcycle parked near a sign for the Silk Route Cafe.

Kelvin, Betame and Lobo having a laugh

Kelvin and Suzie enjoying a quick moment together and the dog not giving a shit!

The group enjoying more ginger lemon tea in a dhaba

We then ventured in to a single track canyon which was just stunning, before some dirt track with several water crossings. The first two crossings were ok and the 3rd was tricky with a VERY long queue! We watched the traffic passing for a while and it was quite a wait for our turn. We all discussed good lines to take through and who would attempt it and who didn’t fancy it. I decided to go for it as there was a lot of support if needed, and I felt I’d later be disappointed in myself if I didn’t at least try. I'm used to dealing with high anxiety and just about getting through, so why not?! At least it'd be short-lived!

Between Shyok and Agham, travelers and motorcyclists navigate a rocky river crossing in a remote mountain landscape, watched by a group of onlookers. Not at all nerve-wracking…gulp!!!

Kelvin watching other bikers crossing and working out the best line

In the meantime, while waiting I failed to find a place to wee out of sight. On returning from my wee spot hunt, I got chatting to a lady called Honey Bajaj who I found sat on my bike and my helmet on her arm having a photo. Initially a bit apprehensive about some random woman posing on my bike, I soon found out she was a fellow rider, but today was in a car as her usual pillion and husband had a bad back. She works for Royal Enfield and we got chatting. Also, I happened to explain my wee spot predicament (being a fellow female rider I reckoned she’d understand) and she promptly took me to her car and provided a disposable ‘Pee buddy’. She opened both car doors and placed a jacket over the door behind me whilst I managed to accurately utilise the device. Bladder relief! How kind was that!!

Lobo and Jacques Snr exchange a fist bump amidst a rugged, mountainous landscape, ready for an adventurous ride through the challenging terrain between Shyok and Agham.

So it was time to cross the water. It was VERY nerve wracking!!! So many people watching, so many differing opinions on the best line, ideal speed etc. I ended up going a bit too fast, probably due to the adrenaline, but I made it ok thankfully! I just didn’t want to go too slow and end up with the back wheel spinning, looking for traction on the slippery rocks. Been there, done that, not fun! Lol!

Betame navigates the rugged mountainous terrain.

Betame and Jacques Snr having completed the water crossings

Negotiating the traffic coming out was horrendous, but I made it eventually. Me, Betame, Peter, Kelvin and NoNo leading the way, then had to wait 20-30 min for the others. They’d all got stuck as a bike (not one of ours) had hit a car and no one was moving as it was just so narrow. How the truck would get through all that I have no idea!

Kelvin explaining something not overly exciting it seems to Betame and Pete

Our two Himalayans having a rest whilst we wait for everyone else

Betame loving life!

Like four leprechauns…NoNo, Pete, Betame and Kelvin sitting on their rocks!

Then, after regrouping, we all continued on lovely roads again to lunch. It was Momos for starters, followed by some tasty noodles. Yum! We were next to a river at a road junction, and the sun was shining. A few of the group went and rested in a room in the dhaba, and a few of us stayed outside, choosing to remove a load of our wet gear and get it in the sun to dry.

Achoo with Manoosh hitching a ride

The team navigate a winding road through a rugged, rocky landscape with towering cliffs in the background.

Lobo navigates a winding road through the rugged, rocky terrain of a remote mountainous landscape of the Nubra Valley.

As above!

We rested about two hours there as the support truck was inevitably stuck in the river crossing traffic. Unfortunately, it was likely going to be a lot longer so in the end we headed off. It was lovely roads again, some single track tarmac, a little dirt road and some wider tarmac roads. Absolutely stunning views to be had in every direction!

Our lunch stop in Agyam

Everyone enjoying some refreshments and catching up about the ride so far

We made it to the 'Organic Retreat' near the Shyok River. We were welcomed with a silk scarf each and a small beer! Having not drank any alcohol since arriving in Leh, I was now happy to partake. We’d had time to adjust and were now at lower altitude, so why not?! Once the van arrived, not too much later at all, we got our stuff and went to our amazing room. It was like a luxury safari tent in the woods!

Betame rides freely along a winding road, surrounded by the rugged and majestic mountains of Ladakh.

A cheerful Kelvin enjoying a refreshing beer inside the restaurant at the Organic Retreat in Hunder in the Nubra Valley

We attended for snacks at 5pm (I had a fried curried bread thing and masala chai), then went for a steam and pool swim at 5.30pm with some of the others. Fabulous! The steam room was so lovely, and the cool pool a nice contrast afterwards. I went in a couple of times and felt well rejuvenated afterwards. That, plus the slightly better sleep last night, had definitely helped me feel a little more human.

Our beautiful room / glamping tent at the Organic Retreat, Nubra

Luxurious eco-friendly bathroom featuring a stone wall shower, pebble flooring, and wooden accents for a natural retreat.

Dinner was at 7.30pm and we sat outside with everyone and had another small beer. It was very nice after several days of no alcohol. Dinner was such a tasty buffet with a typical local soup, breads, momos, curries and rice with some fruit custard and gulab jamun (sweet balls) for pudding. Again, I could have eaten so much more just because it was so tasty, but I refrained from stuffing myself to beyond full. Hara Hachi Bu as they say, lol! Ok, that's Japanese, but still applies!

A group of people gathers around the small outdoor table for Masala Chai and snacks

Then came the briefing for the following day as usual and we chatted with Lobo and Betame for a while. This is when something happened that made me literally cry with laughter! We found out that Betame was in bed with all his clothes on the previous night as he couldn’t shut the window as they had screens in front of them! Oh poor lad! The mosquito screens could be slid sideways to shut the window, but he hadn’t realised this. So the poor soul was trying to keep warm with the windows of his cabin all wide open at over 4000m altitude and damn cold outside! I felt bad to laugh at someone else’s misfortune, but he took it well and it just tickled me! Sorry Betame!!

A tranquil stone pathway winds through a lush, serene garden surrounded by tall trees and rustic stone buildings at the organic retreat

Day 6 Friday 10th July (Day 5 riding)

Today was a slightly later start. We got up at about 7.15 and went to breakfast at 7.45ish. I opted for scrambled egg and fresh local bread, and a buffet with fruit, cereals, plus hot local dishes, among other things. It was nice and tasty as usual. We definitely hadn’t been disappointed by the food so far!

The bikes all lined up and ready to roll for the penultimate day of riding

A remote and serene road, the Diskit-Turtuk Highway, beyond Skuru, winds through rugged terrain with towering mountains in the backdrop

Majestic view from the Diskit-Turtuk Highway of rugged mountains with snow-capped peaks under a vibrant blue sky, flanked by a lush green valley and winding river below.

A billboard in the rocky highlands of Ladakh promotes the mountain weasel, highlighting its role as the swift and secret guardian of the region's natural habitat.

Back at the ‘tent’, we packed and were out at 9.15am, marked out our maps with what we’d done so far all together with Lobo, and got on road about 9.45.

It was beautiful scenery on the way out of town, and it was also a big military area. The roads were generally tarmac interspersed with dirt road, one bit of water to follow along (rather than a standard crossing) and a tiny bit of loose sand, but mostly gravel track. It was exceedingly dusty but well worth it for the stunning view points. We also came to one road block for a short while, but just another opportunity to take some photos, stretch our legs and have a quick snack and some water.

Roadworks on the Diskit-Turtuk Highway

A quick stop for some photos and snacks, with a great view of the valley with the Shyok River on the Diskit-Turtuk Highway

Betame spies a camera!

Lobo telling us about the local area and what’s to come

A breathtaking view of the snow-capped mountains under a vibrant blue sky, with a tranquil Shyok river meandering through the arid, serene valley below.

Lobo and Kelvin loving the landscape!

Workers diligently paint the lining of a roadside drainage channel while traffic flows by.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t go any further as NoNo wasn’t allowed to take us there due to political reasons (for us Brits it was a no-go area) so we didn’t reach the place that was planned for us to get to today, but we went up another route on the way back to have lunch, which had an amazing view on a single track, switchback mountain road.

Kelvin enjoying the rocky valley and flowing roads near Changmar in the Nubra Valley.

Lobo having a chillax and watching Kelvin have a play on the road!

Majestic view of the Nubra Valley. Nearly at our lunch spot!

Betame, Kelvin and Lobo, the three mischief makers! Lol!

Lobo was hoping to take us 2km further on the road but NoNo felt it would be too dangerous, so we turned back after our food. A shame, but completely understandable, especially with eight clients in tow.

A mountain road above the Diskit-Turtuk highway and a great place to stop for a picnic lunch!

Nestled between towering mountains, a small village with patches of lush greenery thrives along the Shyok riverbank

We took the same road back to close to where we stayed last night, and then on to Diskit and up to Diskit Gompa (monastery), with a huge 106ft Maitreya Buddha statue facing down the Shyok River.

Suzie standing in front of the colourful Diskit monastery entrance

A majestic view of Diskit Monastery nestled against the stark, rugged backdrop of the Nubra Valley in Ladakh, India. The ancient structure, with its whitewashed walls and red accents, stands proudly on a rocky hill, embodying centuries of Buddhist heritage.

A vibrant, large statue of Maitreya Buddha sits majestically against a dramatic sky in Nubra Valley, Ladakh. The intricate details and vivid colors highlight the craftsmanship, while a person (Betame) rests at its base, emphasising the statue's grand scale.

A majestic multicolored statue of Maitreya Buddha stands tall symbolising peace and prosperity in Ladakh, India.

Prior to walking up to the statue we indulged in an ice cream each to fuel our ascent (well, that’s my excuse anyway). We then made our way up the hill and it was so worth it! There were some phenomenal views from up there. There were also loads of Mani wheels, and we made sure we walked in a clockwise direction and spun the Mani wheels in a clockwise direction. We opted not to go inside the temple as our boots were still wet inside and thus very smelly, so thought we would save everyone the experience!

A colorful Buddhist stupa overlooks the vast and serene Nubra Valley (Diskit), framed by majestic mountains.

Betame, Kelvin and John C making their way back down from the statue…happy chappy’s!

I didn’t realise, but we were actually only a stone’s throw to our hotel…a new one that the company hadn’t tried before. On the itinerary was the organic retreat, but we were now guinea pigs for this newly opened hotel, I think owned by the same people/company as the retreat (Aksai Boutique Hotel). Cool! We were welcomed with silks and a nice drink with chopped almonds on arrival. We also had some great views from our room, which was very spacious and clean. As we had a balcony we tried to get our kit in the sun to kill the smells now coming from them!

Our cozy hotel room in Aksai Boutique Hotel in Diskit.

Airing our bike gear with a view!

Scenic view from Aksai Boutique Hotel in Diskit, overlooking lush greenery and distant mountains, featuring a patterned stone pathway and minimalist wooden seating in the garden.

Nestled on a rugged mountainside, Diskit Monastery overlooks the lush green valley amidst the stark landscape of the Nubra Valley in Ladakh, India. The towering Maitreya Buddha statue can be seen in the distance. A fab view from Aksai Boutique Hotel in Diskit!

I’d taken loads of photos already so I spent some time looking through those before masala chai tea at 5.30pm and then dinner at 7.30pm. In between tea and dinner, Kelvin and I took a quick walk into Diskit to explore.

Kelvin stands beside a beautifully adorned prayer wheel (mani), surrounded by vibrant traditional artwork, capturing a moment of cultural exploration at a spiritual site.

Whitewashed chortens stand prominently under prayer flags against a backdrop of tall poplar trees and distant mountains.

A large prayer wheel (mani) adorned with colorful Tibetan prayer flags stands under a simple wooden canopy.

Welcome sign at the entrance to Nubra Valley, with directions to various accommodations and attractions. You’d definitely have to stop still to read those!!!

Kelvin on the steps near a beautifully adorned prayer wheel at a traditional Buddhist temple

A scenic gateway to the monastery in Diskit, Ladakh.

Cows leisurely stroll past a guest house on a quiet street in Diskit adorned with colourful prayer flags.

There were some very large Mani’s on route, as well as local traffic (mainly cows). The area was generally quite quiet and it was nice to be able to walk up the hill without our hearts jumping out of our chest. Our bodies had adapted but also we were only about 3150m altitude.

A breathtaking view of a serene valley at dusk, with silhouetted trees framing majestic mountains under a dramatic sky. Not a bad view from our room!

A serene dining area ...Looking forward to the food coming out though!!!

The bikes all neatly lined up at Aksai Boutique Hotel

Dinner was again a buffet and oh so tasty, especially the paneer. The beans were super spicy, but moreish. I had definitely been spoilt for curry (especially paneer) in India so far, I don’t think the ones I’ll get at home will ever match up to the ones here.

Majestic Himalayan landscape at dusk, with silhouetted trees against a vibrant golden sky and towering mountains in the distance. Serene.

Following a short break after dinner, we all went to a local bar for a beer. It was a thoroughly great laugh and I was crying with laughter again, mainly at Betame’s expense (oh for toilet brushes and being cold from not knowing how to shut windows). The few of us remaining then headed back for a good sleep, and our final day of riding!

Day 7 Sat 11th July (Day 6 riding - final riding day)

The final riding day had arrived and breakfast was good, with omelette and a few Indian staples once again.

Kelvin on the Leh-Hunder road near Khalsar

Suzie in her bright yellow helmet taking a selfie Kelvin on the Leh-Hunder road near Khalsar

On the Khardung La Road winding road through the rugged, rocky terrain of a mountainous landscape.

Thanks for the wave Lobo!

Look, no hands! Thanks Betame!

We set off along the road, coming across some roadworks, but it was ok and we were rewarded with some stunning landscapes, stopping for some photos here and there. After a snack stop we stopped again as the roadworkers were setting off a charge on the road, so we had 20 mins wait with stunning views. Not a hardship!

A pause at the Shayok River View Point in the Himalayan mountains, on the Khardung La Road

Breathtaking view of the arid and rugged mountains surrounding the winding Shyok river valley.

The A Team - Left to right: Manooch, Achoo, Lobo, Ramesh, Irfhan and NoNo. Thanks guys!!!!

We made our way towards the 3rd highest motorable pass in the world, Khardung La, at a whopping 5620m altitude. We’d be going over the pass after lunch. We stopped at a military checkpoint on the way up the mountain for Maggi noodles and momos, plus another squat and drop toilet.

Waiting for a charge to go off

Waiting for a charge to go off and chilling out with a view!

Yikes!!! A car among the debris at the base of a rocky hillside, highlighting the aftermath of a severe accident!

Still waiting for the road to open, but no rush here!

I was a bit wary of taking photos of the dhaba due to the military presence, however I just made sure that the military stuff was behind me and the armed recruit stood behind me didn’t bat an eyelid, so all good!

Lunch Time before Khardung La

Lined up for lunch!

Enjoying a meal of instant 'Maggi' noodles and bottled water

As we set off the tarmac changed to broken road and dirt road in places. We were warned to be wary of black ice, especially as there were very steep drop offs on our left in places, with no barrier so focus was very much required. There was also snow in places, especially as we reached the summit of the pass, which was unbelievably busy. We didn’t stop there as it was just too crazy and hard to find space for a whole group to park, but as it was slow going, I managed to whip my phone out for a couple photos in places.

Khardung La Pass, the world's second-highest motorable road at 18,380 feet, welcomes visitors with fluttering prayer flags and cautionary health advisories to keep stays brief due to low oxygen levels.

Nono navigates a scenic but busy mountain pass (Khardung La), surrounded by monks in traditional robes.

Snow-covered peaks and a milestone adorned with stickers mark the journey to Khardung La, one of the highest motorable roads in the world, offering breathtaking views of the rugged Himalayan landscape.

The road snaked down the valley all the way back down in to Leh, with a beautiful view over the city to the mountains behind. We stopped for a couple of photos in places, but the camera didn’t do it justice. I kept looking for the ideal photo spot, but couldn’t make up my mind so ended up barely stopping for any. I think my brain was just too tired.

Snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas stand majestically under a moody, overcast sky, overlooking the Leh valley below.

Three road workers walk along a winding mountain road, shovels in hand.

Majestic snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas loom over the serene landscape of Leh, Ladakh, under a canopy of overcast skies.

A road worker diligently sweeps the roadside. A thankless task!

Before I knew it we were entering Leh, and back at the accommodation. It was road trip over, and what a trip it had been! We’d seen a lot in those six days and the group had been spot on.

We thanked the support team and then all us riders sat having a beer together in the hotel garden. It was then up to the room to get sorted, get changed and packed and then in to town.

Spacious hotel room at the Druk Ladakh

We walked around shops and then into a bar Jacques recommended as they’d been before. Unfortunately, they’d run out of beer so we went with a carbonated wine drink at 15%. It was strong! Whilst we waited, we had some pakoras and fries to line the stomach, but not too much as we were due to have a fabulous dinner later on.

Scaffolding of sorts surrounds the intricately carved wooden facade of the historic Jamia Masjid in Leh, as renovation work is underway.

Bustling street scene in Leh, Ladakh, with colorful prayer flags strung above, as locals and tourists explore beneath the backdrop of the historic Leh Palace and surrounding mountains.

Traditional mural in Ladakh

Bon Appetite was our spot for our final group dinner. By the time we walked over it’d started raining. It was a lovely place, and it was good to get out of the rain. The waiter greeted us warmly. We were quite loud and laughing, so not sure the management appreciated us, but c’est la vie, we had fun, and in the grand scheme of things we weren’t overly loud and we weren’t being rude.

A cold bottle of Bro Code ...not what we expected, lol!

Lobo was there with a new Ride Expeditions guide in training, who would be leading the next group that were due to start their adventure the following day. Definitely a swift turn-around time!! At the end of dinner, Lobo gave us a Tibetan symbol each, and explained to us the meaning of each. I had the horse. Apparently, the horse symbol in Ladakh represents the Wind Horse (known locally as Lungta). It is a powerful, sacred figure in Tibetan Buddhist culture that symbolises vitality, spiritual strength, and the unseen life force that flows through all living beings. I could definitely do with a bit of that, haha!

Two Tibetan bronze figurines from Lobo, depicting a multi-armed deity on the left and an ornate, majestic horse on the right. Apparently I'm the horse and Kelvin the deity! Apparently, the horse symbol in Ladakh represents the Wind Horse (known locally as Lungta). It is a powerful, sacred figure in Tibetan Buddhist culture that symbolises vitality, spiritual strength, and the unseen life force that flows through all living beings.

It was then time to get a taxi back to the hotel. We said goodbye to Betame as he was leaving incredibly early, but we’d likely see everyone else for breakfast.

Day 8 Sun 12th July – leaving Leh day

We were up and at breakfast by 7.30am. We met a new chap, another John, who was going to be on the next tour. John M was downstairs already and we were soon joined by Pete. Then Jacques snr and Jacques jnr joined us. Lobo said hi, but was off sorting stuff for the new group. No rest for the wicked, lol!

Map detailing the region of Ladakh, with our route marked out. Thanks Pete and Lobo for the full finished version.

Before we left the hotel, the support team came for breakfast and so we thanked them again. They had been awesome! It was then a fond farewell to Lobo, tour organiser extraordinaire. We were sad to say goodbye after such an amazing week, but hopefully our paths will cross again in the future.

It was then off to the airport with the Jacques’. It wasn’t too bad at all getting through the scanners etc. We had to wait a short while for the big scanners to open at 9.30am, but no issues. We then checked in and our bags were still within the 25Kg weight limit each. Phew! Security was also fine but electronics all had to come out. I neatly pack all mine inside my helmet, including my camera, a bit like Tetris, so putting it all back together is just a bit annoying more than anything.

Our elegant hotel room at the Maidens Hotel in Delhi

We all sat with a coffee and water while we waited. I think I had about 3-4 nervous wees in 2 hours! Lol! It was then time to take my relaxants…I was very nervous about flying, as usual. I think where I was tired and had already completed six flights in the last four weeks, I was actually feeling way worse than usual rather than better!

Thankfully the plane journey was ok, but it was quite overcast so I couldn’t see much and it made for a few more bumps on the steep-ish ascent out of the mountains. I listened to my ‘flight music’ album all the way as the plane seemed very loud. It was very hazy in Delhi on landing so I couldn’t see much at all until we were close to the ground, which is what I hate! I like to know the pilot has excellent visibility, lol!

The serene pool area at the Maidens Hotel...just for us it seems!

We collected our luggage and then said a final farewell to the Jacques. Our taxi was waiting for us and off we went to the Maidens Hotel. It was an amazing place with gated security and stunning grounds; a little unexpected oasis in the urban sprawl of Delhi. We had a huge room to! It had been a last minute-ish change from the hotel we’d originally booked. We wanted somewhere calm to spend our last couple of days rather than right on the street, and we’d chosen well!

A monkey strolls through a well-manicured garden at the Maidens Hotel

I booked us a half day tour of ‘Old Delhi’ for the next day online with 'Keeper Landwey' (thanks for the recommendation Pete!). I didn’t have the energy for a full day and the thought of getting up at sparrow’s fart to get to the Taj Mahal for the day didn’t appeal. Maybe next time! We went off and used the fabulous pool, which for the majority of the time we had to ourselves. The pool guy also brought us some water, sunscreen and we ordered a coffee. Bliss! In the gardens surrounding the pool we saw monkeys, squirrels, peacocks and chipmunks, all just going about their business. It was magical.

A majestic banyan tree stands tall, its aerial roots cascading downwards at the hotel

We were then joined by an Indian couple. He was from Kashmir and she was from Agra. We talked about the hotel, Delhi, where they were from and the travel we’d just done in India and they were very enthusiastic about us coming back to see more of what India had to offer…a conversation we continued the following day!

The changing rooms were way better than I expected, like my own little boudoir!! Whilst we had been in the pool it seemed the hotel staff had come in and set our room for evening, with the edge of the duvet folded back, and our slippers by the bed. They’d also provided more water and had a little tidy. I definitely wasn’t used to that! For the same price in the UK you’d be lucky to get a Premier Inn room (which I actually like so not dissing them), let alone the 5* treatment!

Kelvin with his new green shirt enjoys a meal at the hotel restaurant. Top notch!

Dinner was lovely in the garden terrace restaurant. It was about £50 all in with a couple of beers, water and a full main meal with sides each, and the quality was excellent!! The Methi Murgh was particularly good! The chef also came to speak to us, which was a nice touch. We were far too full for a dessert so we headed back to the room.

Day 9 - Delhi (Mon 13th)

I had a good sleep and woke 6am. I needed that sleep! I did a few bits on my phone and Kelvin woke at 8ish. We had an amazing buffet breakfast and then got ready for our tour, as we were being collected at 10am.

Flags fly at half-mast at the National War Memorial in New Delhi, India Gate

A sunny view of the grand Secretariat Buildings in New Delhi.

The typical tourist pic at India Gate

As we soon found out, the tour luckily didn’t include pick up and drop off transit time, so we weren’t finished until about 4pm. Our driver Mahinder picked us up promptly at 10 am and drove us to India Gate and then to a different view point. He had limited English but we managed to communicate ok. We then met our official guide Zayn, who we picked up on route. He spoke great English!

Another view of India Gate in New Delhi

The ancient ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla Fort, echoing stories of Delhi’s storied past.

We went to a few different places (see map) and then on to Old Delhi, where we had to transfer to Tuk Tuk due to the narrow streets. Our first stop was Jama Masjid, a huge mosque, which was beautiful. Apparently, it has a 25,000 person capacity!! Luckily there weren’t that many people there!

The majestic Jama Masjid in Delhi, India, stands proudly under a clear blue sky, showcasing its grand architectural design with three impressive domes and towering minarets. Visitors casually explore the expansive courtyard, adding a sense of scale to the historical monument.

Visitors and devotees inside the historic mosque, captured under the intricate arches.

Despite having my knees and shoulders already covered, I was advised to wear a robe that was thick polyester, so I could soon feel the sweat running down my body, but there we are. At least I wouldn’t risk offending anyone. If you’re going, I’d recommend taking a thin coverall with you as the rentals are stifling!!

Suzie and Kelvin standing in front of the majestic Jama Masjid in Delhi, India, showcasing traditional attire as they embrace the vibrant heritage and architectural beauty of one of the largest mosques in the country.

A man walks past a cart loaded with gas cylinders on a bustling street, capturing a slice of everyday life in the busy marketplace.

A display of traditional and contemporary men's wedding outfits, featuring intricate embroidery and accessories.

We stood in the shade in one corner while Zayn told us all about the place. We were taken in to the mosque and the architecture was stunning. We spent a little time walking down the hall before making our way out. We used the bathroom (for a tip of 50 rupees each) and bought water, before heading back in to the TukTuk.

Bustling street scene in Delhi, featuring tangled overhead wires, an ornately decorated building, and a busy market with pedestrians and shops displaying vibrant signs.

A man and a child ride a motorcycle, navigating through a sunlit street filled with the everyday hustle and bustle.

Kelvin enjoying a refreshing cup of homemade Nagori masala chai tea at a bustling street stall in Old Delhi.

A man serves masala chai tea at a bustling street stall, offering traditional Nagori tea and a variety of snacks in a lively market setting.

A street vendor stall features a large, steaming vessel filled with a creamy, garnished dessert, alongside small clay cups ready for serving.

We went to a street market, where we tried an exceptional chai masala in a clay pot. Yum yum! We kept a pot (although not the exact one as Zayn got me a clean one, nice!).

Street-side biryani stall in Delhi serving locals with flavorful dishes, as the vendor skillfully prepares servings for eager customers.

Busy street scene in Old Delhi, India, featuring bustling auto-rickshaws, motorcycles laden with goods, and a backdrop of vibrant storefronts and hanging wires, capturing the vivid energy and daily life in the area.

A bustling market scene where a Zayn stands beside sacks and baskets filled with various nuts and grains.

A vibrant display of assorted spices and herbs in a metal organizer, showcasing a rich blend of flavors and aromas.

A vibrant spice shop showcases an array of neatly organized spice packets, including Channa Masala, Mint Powder, and Fish Tikka.

Then it was on to the famous spice market and we walked up two more floors from street level. Bags and bags of spices and chillies were everywhere. There were more floors to, but we didn’t venture right to the top. It was a massive place and the smells were intense, but we managed it all fine. We bought some spices (curcumin and masala paneer) and tea (chai masala and mango tea).

Bustling with vibrant colors and intricate architecture, the Old Delhi Spice Market stands as a testament to the city's rich cultural tapestry and timeless charm.

Bustling scenes from the rooftops of Old Delhi's spice market, showcasing vibrant blue roofs, scattered sacks, and the lively atmosphere of a busy trading hub.

A bustling spice market with vibrant displays of nuts, dried fruits, and spices neatly arranged in bowls and bags, capturing the rich aromas and lively atmosphere of this traditional marketplace.

The Red Fort in Delhi, India, stands majestically under a clear blue sky, featuring its iconic red sandstone architecture and the Indian flag waving proudly atop.

Bustling street scene with vibrant architecture of a temple near the Red Fort area in Delhi, highlighted by colorful domes and bustling urban activity.

All in all Delhi was not as nuts as I expected, although it is nuts, but like a bizarrely coordinated craziness. I felt fine in the chaos. We even walked across a road junction with the guide and traffic just went around us.

A classic Enfield Bullet 350 motorcycle parked on a busy street, standing out with its iconic design and vibrant colors against the backdrop of auto rickshaws.

You have to keep your wits about you but it’s like they expect you to walk in front of them as there’s never a break in the traffic. We were very aware of our possessions and made sure we kept things close, so we weren’t being silly, but it was also so interesting.

An ancient stepwell 'Ugrasen ki Baoli', showcasing intricate stone architecture with arched niches and descending steps leading to a water reservoir, framed by lush greenery in the background.

Plaques at Ugrasen ki Baoli, an ancient stepwell in Delhi, provide historical context and architectural details in both Hindi and English.

Ancient stone monument with arched niches and pillars under a tree canopy, showcasing historical architecture and time-worn details.

On our way back to the hotel in the taxi, we stopped at a deep well called Ugrasen ki Baoli, which was very serene. Apparently, it is a place with a lot of suicides though, so a little bit sad, but it had a real calmness to it.

A craftsman meticulously weaves a detailed carpet in a traditional workshop, surrounded by various yarns and vibrant patterns.

Then it was on to a big shop with a toilet, the part that I was most interested in as I was busting. It was an amazing place, and they showed us how they make carpets, but then they rolled out loads to try and sell to us. I said no but did find it interesting. Also, there were stores in the same building for cashmere, cotton, silk, jewellery and much more! I didn’t cave in to buying, I really didn’t need anything, but Kelvin bought two tops for 3000 rupees so very good value!

A spacious rug shop showcases an array of intricately designed carpets, with rich patterns and vibrant colors. Sadly we weren't buying!

A salesperson describes the texture and quality of a white fabric in a fabric store, with shelves of colorful textiles neatly arranged in the background.

I may have got something as I could see myself wearing one of the lightweight tops a lot, but the talk and showing everything was really intense, so I just shut off and didn’t want to buy. Had I been left to look on my own terms, maybe. I just don’t need more stuff! I explained to Zayn that I prefer to spend my money on travel and experiences, but oddly for a tour guide he said he didn’t really like to travel much, although his girlfriend was trying to get him to travel more. Usually guides have a real interest in travel so I was quite surprised, and he probably didn’t understand my non-materialistic mindset.

An intricately detailed statue of Ganesha, the elephant-headed deity, is prominently displayed in an artisanal showroom adorned with traditional Indian textiles and crafts.

The taxi dropped off Zayn at the metro and then we went back to the hotel. It was quite a drive! Delhi is massive it seems.

Back at the hotel we went to the pool for 2 hours, chatted to the Indian couple again, although I have completely forgotton their names sadly. I was very tired! We discussed the best time to visit India and I think if we come back it’ll need to be Feb-March time one year. Never November aparently!! We also discussed again that the country has so much to offer. I definitely want to explore India more!

A peacock gracefully soars from a white building next to the hotel pool

We saw parrots, chipmunks, and peacocks (but no monkeys today). Then dinner was at 7pm and Kelvin had the Methi Murgh (what I had yesterday) and I had Maidens Chicken (yum).

A serene scene by the poolside as a peacock gracefully bends to sip water.

That was followed by mango mousse and a chilled mango dessert for pudding, which were both quite nice, but probably not needed. We also arranged a takeaway breakfast for next day as we’d be leaving very early. It was then back upstairs as we were shattered! What a great day!

Just the most tasty curries!

So, bar another long taxi ride and a 9 hour flight, our India adventure had come to an end! It had been such a full-on, fabulous adventure, with great people. Would we recommend it?! Oh yes! Whether you go with a company (highly recommend Ride Expeditions by the way) or independently, it’s a really interesting part of the world with some jaw-dropping scenery to be had. Enjoy, and if you go, let us know what you think!

Here's to the next adventure!!!