Week 112 - Brazil's Estrada da Graciosa and Guaratuba
- Suzie Prevett
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
Leaving Foz do Iguaçu was bittersweet. We said goodbye to Glen and Joe, packed up the bikes, and pointed east toward central Brazil. The road ahead stretched for about 400 km with smooth tarmac, endless toll booths, and the occasional pang of worry about Kelvin’s worn shock and thinning tires. Dirt tracks were planned to be off the menu now; the last eight weeks would be all about survival of the shock and scenery.
Our first petrol stop was uneventful, except for the price, around £1 a litre, a shock compared to other countries. Then there was the language barrier. Portuguese felt like a locked door we couldn’t quite open, but smiles and gestures carried us through.
That night, we rolled into Guarapuava and found the Royal Trip Hotel…a budget gem with secure parking and a pizza place right across the street. Brazil, we quickly learned, loves its buffets! Breakfast was also a buffet feast, and the guys at reception were absolute stars.
Waterfalls and Wandering
The next day, we aimed for Prudentópolis and the famous Salto Sete. It wasn’t quite what we expected; a long, steep walk down to the falls and an even harder climb back up, but the view was worth every step. From there, plans changed. Our intended hotel was a no-show, so we pushed on to Curitiba. This city surprised us. There were pretty streets, elegant buildings, and we found a quiet hotel tucked opposite a mosque. It felt like an ex-love hotel...very quirky, but it worked.
Dinner was fast food, thanks to a lovely lady who helped us navigate the menu. Outside, this part of the city told a different story: soup kitchens in the square, homeless faces, and a cold chill that crept into our bones. The blankets back at the hotel smelled of smoke, and the draft made for a cold night...We left early!
The Gracious Road to Morretes
The ride to Morretes was pure magic. We took the 'Estrada da Graciosa', an old cobbled road winding through lush mountains. Every curve revealed another postcard-perfect view. By the time we reached Hospedagem Solar do Maria, we knew we’d stay two nights. The town was tranquil, dotted with cafés, ice cream shops, and colonial charm. A storm rolled in that afternoon, and we were grateful not to be wrestling cobblestones in the rain.
The next day was all about indulgence with ice cream buffets, riverside walks, and a traditional dinner at Café Bar Beira Rio. Barreado, a slow-cooked meat stew, stole the show, paired with baked banana, manioc flour, and a couple of Caipirinhas. Kelvin tried an Artisan chopp beer, and we toasted to Brazil’s flavours.
Salt Air and Sandy Shores
Morning came with a hearty breakfast and warm goodbyes. We rode toward the coast under a brilliant sun, eager for the sea we hadn’t seen in weeks. A short ferry ride across the estuary brought us to a new chapter full of beaches, fishing boats, and a pousada with courtyard parking. Locals waved us to the front of the ferry queue, and a biker gifted us stickers from his club so we swapped one of ours in return. These small moments make the miles matter.
The beach was alive: fishermen hauling boats through the surf, gutting their catch on the seawall. We wandered, watched, and soaked in the rhythm of coastal life. Lunch was a buffet again; simple but satisfying. Back at the hostel, Kelvin’s neck ached, so we called it an early night.
Bodyboards and Beer
The following days blurred into a sun-soaked routine: walks along the promenade, cheap burgers, and bodyboarding in waves that never quite cooperated, ha ha! It was so nice to be in the sea again though and after we sat on the rocks with a cool beer...hard life!
We climbed to the Jesus statue overlooking Guaratuba beach for a panoramic view, and met a man from Texas seeing the ocean for the first time...nuts!!! A little reminder of how vast and varied this world is, and how we are so lucky to be able to travel so extensively.
Evenings were simple: pizza next door, pasta plates, and quiet nights planning the next leg. Tomorrow, Joinville and meeting new friends awaits!
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